Office of Air and Radiation (OAR),
Office of Radiation and Indoor Air (ORIA) (6609J)
402-K-00-008, July 2000

EPA Recommends:

• If you are buying a home or selling your home, have it tested for radon.
• For a new home, ask if radon-resistant construction features were used and if the home has been tested.
• Fix the home if the radon level is 4 picocuries per liter (pCi/L) or higher.
• Radon levels less than 4 pCi/L still pose a risk, and in many cases, may be reduced.
• Take steps to prevent device interference when conducting a radon test.

Based on information contained in the National Academy of Sciences report, The Health Effects of Exposure to Indoor Radon, radon is estimated to cause between 15,000 and 22,000 lung cancer deaths per year.  Data on (non-radon) causes of death are from Injury Facts, 1999 Edition, National Safety Council, Itasca, IL.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. Why Should I Test for Radon?
   a. Radon Has Been Found in Homes All Over the United States
   b. EPA and the Surgeon General Recommend That You Test Your Home

2. I'm Selling a Home.  What Should I Do?
   a. If Your Home Has Already Been Tested for Radon
   b. If Your Home Has Not Yet Been Tested for Radon

3. I'm Buying a Home.  What Should I Do?
   a. If the Home Has Already Been Tested for Radon
   b. If the Home Has Not Yet Been Tested for Radon

4. I'm Buying or Building a New Home.  How Can I Protect My Family?
   a. Why Should I Buy a Radon-Resistant Home?
   b. What Are Radon-Resistant Features?

5. How Can I Get Reliable Radon Test Results?
   a. Types of Radon Devices
   b. General Information for All Devices
   c. Preventing or Detecting Test Interference
   d. Length of Time to Test
   e. Doing a Short-Term Test
   f.  Using Testing Devices Properly for Reliable Results
   g. Interpreting Radon Test Results
       Radon and Smoking
       Radon Testing Checklist

6. What Should I Do If the Radon Level is High?
   a. High Radon Levels Can Be Reduced
   b. How to Lower the Radon Level in Your Home
   c. Selecting a Radon-Reduction (Mitigation) Contractor
   d. What Can a Qualified Radon-Reduction Contractor Do for You
   e. Radon in Water

7. Radon Myths and Facts

8. Need More Information About Radon?
   a. World Wide Web Sites (EPA)
   b. Radon Hotlines (Toll-Free)
   c. Printed Documents
       Radon Risk and Testing
       Reducing Radon Levels in a Home
       Building a New Home to Be Radon-Resistant
       Radon Technical Guidance

9. State Radon Offices

10. EPA Regional Offices

11. Endorsements

OVERVIEW

This Guide answers important questions about radon and lung cancer risk.  It also answers questions about testing and fixing for anyone buying or selling a home.

Radon Is a Cancer-Causing, Radioactive Gas

You cannot see, smell, or taste radon. But it still may be a problem in your home.  When you breathe air containing radon, you increase your risk of getting lung cancer.  In fact, the Surgeon General of the United States has warned that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States today.  If you smoke and your home has high radon levels, your risk of lung cancer is especially high.

You Should Test for Radon

Testing is the only way to find out your home's radon levels. EPA and the Surgeon General recommend testing all homes below the third floor for radon.

You Can Fix a Radon Problem

If you find that you have high radon levels, there are ways to fix a radon problem. Even very high levels can be reduced to acceptable levels.

If You Are Selling a Home...

EPA recommends that you test your home before putting it on the market and, if necessary, lower your radon levels. Save the test results and all information you have about steps that were taken to fix any problems. This could be a positive selling point. 

If You Are Buying a Home...

EPA recommends that you know what the indoor radon level is in any home you consider buying.  Ask the seller for their radon test results.  If the home has a radon-reduction system, ask the seller for information they have about the system.

If the home has not yet been tested, you should have the housed tested.

If you are having a new home built, there are features that can be incorporated into your home during construction to reduce radon levels.

The radon testing guidelines in this Guide have been developed specifically to deal with the time-sensitive nature of home purchases and sales, and the potential for radon device interference.  These guidelines are slightly different from the guidelines in other EPA publications which provide radon testing and reduction information for non-real estate situations.

This Guide recommends three short-term testing options for real estate transactions.  EPA also recommends testing a home in the lowest level which is currently suitable for occupancy, since a buyer may choose to live in a lower area of the home than that used by the seller.

1. Why Do You Need to Test for Radon?

a. Radon Has Been Found In Homes All Over the U.S.

Radon is a radioactive gas that has been found in homes all over the United States. It comes from the natural breakdown of uranium in soil, rock and water and gets into the air you breathe. Radon typically moves up through the ground to the air above and into your home through cracks and other holes in the foundation. Radon can also enter your home through well water.  Your home can trap radon inside.

Any home can have a radon problem. This means new and old homes, well-sealed and drafty homes, and homes with or without basements. In fact, you and your family are most likely to get your greatest radiation exposure at home. That is where you spend most of your time.

Nearly 1 out of every 15 homes in the United States is estimated to have an elevated radon level (4 pCi/L or more).  Elevated levels of radon gas have been found in homes in your state. Contact your state radon office for information about radon in your area.

b. EPA and the Surgeon General Recommend That You Test Your Home

Testing is the only way to know if you and your family are at risk from radon. EPA and the Surgeon General recommend testing all homes below the third floor for radon.

You cannot predict radon levels based on state, local, and neighborhood radon measurements.  Do not rely on radon test results taken in other homes in the neighborhood to estimate the radon level in your home.  Homes which are next to each other can have different radon levels.  Testing is the only way to find out what your home's radon level is.

In some areas, companies may offer different types of radon service agreements.  Some agreements let you pay a one-time fee that covers both testing and radon mitigation, if needed.  Contact your state radon office to find out if these are available in your state.

2. I'm Selling a Home.  What Should I Do?

a. If Your Home Has Already Been Tested for Radon...

If you are thinking of selling your home and you have already tested your home for radon,  review the Radon Testing Checklist to make sure that the test was done correctly.  If so, provide your test results to the buyer.

No matter what kind of test you took, a potential buyer may ask for a new test especially if:

• The Radon Testing Checklist items were not met;
• The last test is not recent, e.g., within two years;
• You have renovated or altered your home since you tested; or
• The buyer plans to live in a lower level of the house than was tested, such as a basement suitable for occupancy but not currently lived in.

A buyer may also ask for a new test if your state or local government requires disclosure of radon information to buyers.

b. If Your Home Has Not Yet Been Tested for Radon...

Have a test taken as soon as possible. If you can, test your home before putting it on the market.  You should test in the lowest level of the home which is suitable for occupancy. This means testing in the lowest level that you currently live in or a lower level not currently used, but which a buyer could use for living space without renovations. 

The radon test result is important information about your home's radon level.  Some states require radon measurement testers to follow a specific testing protocol.  If you do the test yourself, you should carefully follow the testing protocol for your area or EPA's Radon Testing Checklist.  If you hire a contractor to test your residence, protect yourself by hiring a qualified individual or company.

You can determine a service provider's qualifications to perform radon measurements or to mitigate your home in several ways.  Check with your state radon office.  Many states require radon professionals to be licensed, certified, or registered.  Most states can provide you with a list of knowledgeable radon service providers doing business in the state.  In states that don't regulate radon services, ask the contractor if they hold a professional proficiency or certification credential.  Such programs usually provide members with a photo-ID card, which indicates their qualification(s) and its expiration date.  If in doubt, you should check with their credentialing organization.  Alternatively, ask the contractor if they've successfully completed formal training appropriate for testing or mitigation, e.g., a course in radon measurement or radon mitigation.

3. I'm Buying a Home.  What Should I Do?

a. If the Home Has Already Been Tested for Radon...

If you are thinking of buying a home, you may decide to accept an earlier  test result from the seller, or ask the seller for a new test to be conducted by a qualified radon tester.  Before you accept the seller's test, you should determine:

• The results of previous testing;

• Who conducted the previous test:  the homeowner, a radon professional, or some other person;

• Where in the home the previous test was taken, especially if you may plan to live in a lower level of the home.  For example, the test may have been taken on the first floor.  However, if you want to use the basement as living space, test there; and

• What, if any, structural changes, alterations, or changes in the heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) system have been made to the house since the test was done.  Such changes may affect radon levels.

If you accept the seller's test, make sure that the test followed the Radon Testing Checklist.

If you decide that a new test is needed, discuss it with the seller as soon as possible. If you decide to use a qualified radon tester, contact your state radon office to obtain a copy of their approved list of radon testing companies.

b. If the Home Has Not Yet Been Tested for Radon...

Make sure that a radon test is done as soon as possible. Consider including provisions in the contract specifying:

• Where the test will be located;

• Who should conduct the test;

• What type of test to do;

• When to do the test;

• How the seller and the buyer will share the test results and test costs (if necessary); and

• When radon mitigation measures will be taken and who will pay for them.

Make sure that the test is done in the lowest level of the home suitable for occupancy. This means the lowest level that you are going to use as living space which is finished or does not require renovations prior to use. A state or local radon official or qualified radon tester can help you make some of these decisions.

If you decide to finish or renovate an unfinished area of the home in the future, a radon test should be taken before starting the project and after the project is finished. Generally, it is less expensive to install a radon-reduction system before (or during) renovations rather than afterwards.

4. I'm Buying or Building a New Home.  How Can I Protect My Family?

a. Why Should I Buy a Radon-Resistant Home?

Radon-resistant techniques work.  When installed properly and completely, these simple and inexpensive passive techniques can help to reduce radon levels.  In addition, installing them at the time of construction makes it easier to reduce radon levels further if the passive techniques don't reduce radon levels below 4 pCi/L.  Radon-resistant techniques may also help to lower moisture levels and those of other soil-gases.  Radon-resistant techniques:

	Making Upgrading Easy:  Even if built to be radon-resistant, every new home should be tested for radon after occupancy.  If you have a test result of 4 pCi/L or more, a vent fan can easily be added to the passive system to make it an active system and further reduce radon levels.
	Are Cost-Effective:  Building radon-resistant features into the house during construction is easier and cheaper than fixing a radon problem from scratch later.  Let your builder know that radon-resistant features are easy to install using common building materials.
	Save Money:  When installed properly and completely, radon-resistant techniques can also make your home more energy efficient and help you save on your energy costs.

In a new home, the cost to install passive radon-resistant features during construction is usually between $350 and $500.  In some areas, the cost may be as low as $100.  A qualified mitigator will charge about $300 to add a vent fan to a passive system, making it an active system and further reducing radon levels.  In an existing home, it usually costs between $800 and $2,500 to install a radon mitigation system.

b. What Are Radon-Resistant Features?

Radon-resistant techniques (features) may vary for different foundations and site requirements.  If you're having a house built, you can learn about EPA's Model Standards (and architectural drawings) and explain the techniques to your builder.  If your new house was built (or will be built) to be radon-resistant, it will include these basic elements:

1. Gas-Permeable Layer:  This layer is placed beneath the slab or flooring system to allow the soil gas to move freely underneath the house.  In many cases, the material used is a 4-inch layer of clean gravel.  This gas-permeable layer is used only in homes with basement and slab-on-grade foundations; it is not used in homes with crawlspace foundations.

2. Plastic Sheeting:  Plastic sheeting is placed on top of the gas-permeable layer and under the slab to help prevent the soil gas from entering the home.  In crawl spaces, the sheeting (with seams sealed) is placed directly over the crawlspace floor.

3. Sealing and Caulking:  All below-grade openings in the foundation and walls are sealed to reduce soil gas entry into the home.

4. Vent Pipe:  A 3- or 4-inch PVC pipe (or other gas-tight pipe) runs from the gas-permeable layer through the house to the roof, to safely vent radon and other soil gases to the outside.

5. Junction Boxes:  An electrical junction box is included in the attic to make the wiring and installation of a vent fan easier.  For example, you decide to activate the passive system because your test result showed an elevated radon level (4 pCi/L or more).  A separate junction box is placed in the living space to power the vent fan alarm.  An alarm is installed along with the vent fan to indicate when the vent fan is not operating properly.

5. How Can I Get Reliable Radon Test Results?

Radon testing is easy and the only way to find out if you have a radon problem in your home.

a. Types of Radon Devices

Since you cannot see or smell radon, special equipment is needed to detect it.  When you're ready to test your home, you can order a radon test kit by mail from a qualified radon measurement services provider or laboratory.  You can also hire a qualified radon tester, very often a home inspector, who will use a radon device(s) suitable to your situation.  The most common types of radon testing devices are listed below.  As new testing devices are developed, you may want to check with your state radon office before you test to get the most up-to-date information.

Passive Devices

Passive radon testing devices do not need power to function.  These include charcoal canisters, alpha-track detectors, charcoal liquid scintillation devices, and electret ion chamber detectors which are available in hardware, drug, and other stores; they can also be ordered by mail or phone.  These devices are exposed to the air in the home for a specified period of time and then sent to a laboratory for analysis.  Both short-term and long-term passive devices are generally inexpensive. Some of these devices may have features that offer more resistance to test interference or disturbance than other passive devices. Qualified radon testers may use any of these devices to measure the home's radon level.

Active Devices

Active radon testing devices require power to function. These include continuous radon monitors and continuous working level monitors.  They continuously measure and record the amount of radon or its decay products in the air.  Many of these devices provide a report of this information which can reveal any unusual or abnormal swings in the radon level during the test period. A qualified tester can explain this report to you.  In addition, some of these devices are specifically designed to deter and detect test interference. Some technically advanced active devices offer anti-interference features.  Although these tests may cost more, they may ensure a more reliable result.

b. General Information for All Devices

A state or local radon official can explain the differences between devices and recommend the ones which are most appropriate for your needs and expected testing conditions.

Make sure to use a radon measurement device from a qualified laboratory.  Certain precautions should be followed to avoid interference during the test period.  See the Radon Testing Checklist for more information on how to get a reliable test result.

c. Preventing or Detecting Test Interference

There is a potential for test interference in real estate transactions. There are several ways to prevent or detect test interference:

• Use a test device that frequently records radon or decay product levels to detect unusual swings;
• Employ a motion detector to determine whether the test device has been moved or testing conditions have changed;
• Use a proximity detector to reveal the presence of people in the room which may correlate to possible changes in radon levels during the test;
• Record the barometric pressure to identify weather conditions which may have affected the test;
• Record the temperature record to help assess whether doors and windows have been opened;
• Apply tamper-proof seals to windows to ensure closed house conditions; and
• Have the seller/occupant sign a non-interference agreement.

Home buyers and sellers should consult a qualified radon test provider about the use of these precautions.

d. Length of Time to Test

There Are Two General Ways To Test Your Home for Radon:

Because radon levels vary from day to day and season to season, a short-term test is less likely than a long-term test to tell you your year-round average radon level.  However, if you need results quickly, a short-term test may be used to decide whether to fix the home.

Short-Term Testing

The quickest way to test is with short-term tests. Short-term tests remain in your home from two days to 90 days, depending on the device. There are two groups of devices which are more commonly used for short-term testing. The passive device group includes alpha track detectors, charcoal canisters, charcoal liquid scintillation detectors, and electret ion chambers. The active device group consists of different types of continuous monitors.

Long-Term Testing

Long-term tests remain in your home for more than 90 days. Alpha track, and electret ion chamber detectors are commonly used for this type of testing. A long-term test will give you a reading that is more likely to tell you your home's year-round average radon level than a short-term test. If time permits (more than 90 days) long-term tests can be used to confirm initial short-term results. When long-term test results are 4 pCi/L or higher, EPA recommends fixing the home.

e. Doing a Short-Term Test...

If you are testing in a real estate transaction and you need results quickly, any of the following three options for  short-term Tests are acceptable in determining whether the home should be fixed. Any real estate test for radon should include steps to prevent or detect device interference with the test device.

f.  Using Testing Devices Properly for Reliable Results

If You Do the Test Yourself

When you are taking a short-term test, close windows and doors and keep them closed, except for normal entry and exit.  If you are taking a short-term test lasting less than four days, be sure to:

• Close your windows and outside doors at least 12 hours before beginning the test;
• Do not conduct short-term tests lasting less than four days during severe storms or periods of high winds;
• Follow the testing instructions and record the start time and date;
• Place the test device at least 20 inches above the floor in a location where it will not be disturbed and where it will be away from drafts, high heat, high humidity, and exterior walls;
• Leave the test kit in place for as long as the test instructions say; and
• Once you have finished the test, record the stop time and date, reseal the package and return it immediately to the lab specified on the package for analysis.

If You Hire a Qualified Radon Tester

Radon Testing Checklist

For reliable test results, follow this Radon Testing Checklist carefully.  Testing for radon is not complicated.  Improper testing may yield inaccurate results and require another test.  Disturbing or interfering with the test device, or with closed-house conditions, may invalidate the test results and is illegal in some states.  If the seller or qualified tester cannot confirm that all items have been completed, take another test.

Before Conducting a Radon Test:

• Notify the occupants of the importance of proper testing conditions. Give the occupants written instructions or a copy of this Guide and explain the directions carefully.

• Conduct the radon test for a minimum of 48 hours; some test devices have a minimum exposure time greater than 48 hours.

• When doing a short-term test ranging from 2-4 days, it is important to maintain closed-house conditions for at least 12 hours before the beginning of the test and during the entire test period.

• When doing a short-term test ranging from 4-7 days, EPA recommends that closed-house conditions be maintained.

• If you conduct the test yourself, use a qualified radon measurement device and follow the laboratory's instructions.  Your state may be able to provide you with a list of do-it-yourself test devices available from qualified laboratories.

• If you hire someone to do the test, hire only a qualified individual.  Some states issue photo identification (ID) cards; ask to see it.  The tester's ID number, if available, should be included or noted in the test report.

• The test should include method(s) to prevent or detect interference with testing conditions or with the testing device itself.

• If the house has an active radon-reduction system, make sure the vent fan is operating properly.  If the fan is not operating properly, have it (or ask to have it) repaired and then test.

During a Radon Test:

• Maintain closed-house conditions during he entire time of a short term test, especially for tests shorter than one week in length.
  

• Operate the home's heating and cooling systems normally during the test. For tests lasting less than one week, operate only air-conditioning units which recirculate interior air.
  

• Do not disturb the test device at any time during the test.
  

• If a radon-reduction system is in place, make sure the system is working properly and will be in operation during the entire radon test.

After a Radon Test:

• If you conduct the test yourself, be sure to promptly return the test device to the laboratory.  Be sure to complete the required information, including start and stop times, test location, etc.
  

• If an elevated level is found, fix the home. Contact a qualified radon-reduction contractor about lowering the radon level.  EPA recommends that you fix the home when the radon level is 4 pCi/L or more.
  

• Be sure that you or the radon tester can demonstrate or provide information to ensure that the testing conditions were not violated during the testing period.

6. What Should I Do If the Radon Level is High?

a. High Radon Levels Can be Reduced

EPA recommends that you take action to reduce your home's indoor radon levels if your radon test result is 4 pCi/L or higher. It is better to correct a radon problem before placing your home on the market because then you have more time to address a radon problem. 

If elevated levels are found during the real estate transaction, the buyer and seller should discuss the timing and costs of the radon reduction.  The cost of making repairs to reduce radon levels depends on how your home was built and other factors. Most homes can be fixed for about the same cost as other common home repairs, like painting or having a new hot water heater installed. The average cost for a contractor to lower radon levels in a home can range from $800 to about $2,500.

b. How To Lower The Radon Level In Your Home

A variety of methods can be used to reduce radon in homes. Sealing cracks and other openings in the foundation is a basic part of most approaches to radon reduction. EPA does not recommend the use of sealing alone to limit radon entry.  Sealing alone has not been shown to lower radon levels significantly or consistently. 

In most cases, a system with a vent pipe(s) and fan(s) is used to reduce radon.  These "sub-slab depressurization" systems do not require major changes to your home. Similar systems can also be installed in homes with crawl space.  These systems prevent radon gas from entering the home from below the concrete floor and from outside the foundation.  Radon mitigation contractors may use other methods that may also work in your home. The right system depends on the design of your home and other factors. 

Techniques for reducing radon are discussed in EPA's "Consumer's Guide to Radon Reduction."  As with any other household appliance, there are costs associated with the operation of the radon-reduction system.

You should also test your home again after it is fixed to be sure that radon levels have been reduced. If your living patterns change and you begin occupying a lower level of your home (such as a basement) you should retest your home on that level. In addition, it is a good idea to retest your home sometime in the future to be sure radon levels remain low.

c. Selecting a Radon-Reduction (Mitigation) Contractor

Select a qualified radon-reduction contractor to reduce the radon levels in your home.  Any mitigation measures taken or system installed in your home must conform to your state's regulations.  In states without regulations covering mitigation, the system should conform to EPA's Radon Mitigation Standards.

EPA recommends that the mitigation contractor review the radon measurement results before beginning and radon-reduction work.  Test again after the radon mitigation work has been completed to confirm that previous elevated levels have been reduced.  EPA recommends that the test be conducted by an independent qualified radon tester.

d. What Can a Qualified Radon-Reduction Contractor Do for You?

A qualified radon-reduction (mitigation) contractor should be able to:

• Review testing guidelines and measurement results, and determine if additional measurements are needed;
  
• Evaluate the radon problem and provide you with a detailed, written proposal on how radon levels will be lowered;
  
• Design a radon-reduction system;
  
• Install the system according to EPA standards, or state or local codes; and
  
• Make sure the finished system effectively reduces radon levels to acceptable levels.

Choose a radon mitigation contractor to fix your radon problem just as you would for any other home repair.  You may want to get more than one estimate, ask for and check their references.  Make sure the person you hire is qualified to install a mitigation system.  Some states regulate or certify radon mitigation services providers.

Be aware that a potential conflict of interest exists if the same person or firm performs the testing and installs the mitigation system.  Some states may require the homeowner to sign a waiver in such cases.  If the same person or firm does the testing and mitigation, make sure the testing is done in accordance with the Radon Testing Checklist.  Contact your state radon office for more information.

e. Radon in Water

The radon in your home's indoor air can come from two sources, the soil or your water supply.  Compared to radon entering your home through water, radon entering your home through soil is a much larger risk.  If you've tested for radon in air and have elevated radon levels and your water comes from a private well, have your water tested.  The devices and procedures for testing your home's water supply are different from those used for measuring radon in air.

The radon in your water supply poses an inhalation risk and an ingestion risk.  Research has shown that your risk of lung cancer from breathing radon in air is much larger than your risk of stomach cancer from swallowing water with radon in it.  Most of your risk from radon in water comes from radon released into the air when water is used for showering and other household purposes.

Radon in your home's water in not usually a problem when its source is surface water.  A radon in water problem is more likely when its source is ground water, e.g., a private well or a public water supply system that uses ground water.  Some public water systems treat their water to reduce radon levels before it is delivered to your home.  If you are concerned that radon may be entering your home through the water and your water comes from a public water supply, contact your water supplier.

If you've tested your private well and have a radon in water problem, it can be fixed. Your home's water supply can be treated in one of two ways.  Point-of-entry treatment can effectively remove radon from the water before it enters your home.  Point-of-entry treatment usually employs either granular activated carbon (GAC) filters or aeration devices.  While GAC filters usually cost less than aeration devices, filters can collect radioactivity and may require a special method of disposal.  Point-of-use treatment devices remove radon from your water at the tap, but only treat a small portion of the water you use, e.g., the water you drink.  Point-of-use devices are not effective in reducing the risk from breathing radon released into the air from all water used in the home.

For information on radon in water, testing and treatment, and existing or planned radon in drinking water standards, or for general help, call EPA's Drinking Water Hotline at (800) 426-4791 or visit http://www.epa.gov/safewater/radon.html.  If your water comes from a private well, you can also contact your state radon office.

7. Go to the Radon Myths and Facts Page

8. Need More Information About Radon?

a. World Wide Web Sites (EPA)

These are EPA's most important web sites for information on radon and indoor air quality.  All the EPA publications listed in this section are available here on EPA's web site.

• EPA's main radon page.  Includes links to the NAS radon report, radon-resistant new construction, the map of radon zones, radon publications, hotlines and more.
  

• State Radon Contacts.  Provides detailed information on contacting your state's radon office, including links to some state web sites.  State indoor air quality contact are also included.
  

• EPA's Radon Publications.  Offers the full text version of EPA's most popular radon publications, including the Consumer's Guide to Radon Reduction, the Citizen's Guide to Radon, and the Model Standards and Techniques for Control of Radon in New Residential Buildings, and others.
  

• EPA's main page on Indoor Air Quality.  Includes information on indoor risk factors, e.g., asthma, secondhand smoke, carbon monoxide, duct cleaning, ozone generating devices, indoor air cleaners, flood cleanup, etc.
  

• EPA's main page on radon in water.  Includes information on statutory requirements and links to the drinking water standards program.

b. Radon Hotlines (Toll-Free)

EPA supports the following hotlines to best serve consumers with radon-related questions and concerns.

• 1-800-SOS-RADON (767-7236).  Radon Hotline, operated by the National Safety Council (NSC) in partnership with EPA.  Order radon test kits by phone.
  

• 1-800-55RADON (557-2366).  For live help with your radon questions.  Operated by the National Safety Council (NSC) in partnership with EPA.
  

• 1-800-644-6999.  Radon Fix-it Hotline, operated by the Consumer Federation of America Foundation (CFAF) in partnership with EPA.  For help with your radon mitigation questions.
  

• 1-800-725-8312.  A Spanish (Espanol) language radon hotline, operated by the National Alliance for Hispanic Health (the Alliance) in partnership with EPA.  For general help with radon, testing, and mitigation questions, and free test kits.
  

• 1-800-438-4318.  The Indoor Air Quality (IAQ) Information Clearinghouse is privately operated under contract to EPA.  You can order copies of EPA consumer-oriented radon publications and get general information on radon and indoor air quality issues.
  

• 1-800-426-4791.  Safe Drinking Water Hotline, privately operated under contract to EPA.  For general information on drinking water, radon in water, testing and treatment, and radon drinking water standards.

c. Printed Documents

Radon Risk and Testing

• Home Buyer's and Seller's Guide to Radon (EPA 402-K-00-008, July 2000).
  Everything you need to know about effectively dealing with radon during a residential real estate transaction.  This publication is also available as a portable document format (PDF) file.  This publication is available here within the public domain and as such may be reproduced or reprinted in it entirety and without changes.  A franking/imprint space for organizations and businesses is available on the lower half of the back cover.  This publication was prepared by EPA's Indoor Environments Division (IED), Office of Radiation and Indoor Air (6609J), 1200 Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W., Washington, DC  20460.
  
  Single copies are available free from the following sources (multiple copies may be available in some instances; ask for details):

• State Radon Offices

• IAQ Information Clearinghouse at 1-800-438-4318 or at iaqinfo@aol.com.

• National Service Center for Environmental Publications (NCEP) at 1-800-490-9198

• Any one of EPA's ten Regional Offices

Single or multiple copies are available for a fee from the following sources (ask for details):

• The Conference of Radiation Control Program Directors (CRCPD) at (502) 227-4523 (multiple copy orders only).

• U.S. Government Printing Office (GPO)  at (202) 512-1800.

• The American Association of Radon Scientists and Technologists (AARST)   at (800) 484-7551; code 5130 (multiple copy orders only).

• The National Radon Safety Board (NRSB) at 1-866-329-3474 (multiple copy orders only).

• The National Environmental Health Association (NEHA) at (719) 227-7518. 

• A Citizen's Guide to Radon: The Guide to Protecting Yourself and Your Family from Radon (EPA 402-K-92-001, September 1994).  Provides basic information on radon, sources of radon, radon health risks, and how to test when you're not in a real estate transaction.

• A Radon Guide for Tenants (EPA 402-K-98-004, August 1998).  Provides tenants with basic information about radon, testing, and fixing. It also contains information directed to building owners and landlords.

Reducing Radon Levels in a Home

• Consumer's Guide to Radon Reduction (EPA 402-K-92-003, August 1992). The consumer's basic source of information on how to reduce radon levels in a home's indoor air.  It includes information about the key mitigation system components, installation and operating costs, radon health risks, and testing (when not in a real estate transaction).

Building a New Home to be Radon-Resistant

• Model Standards and Techniques for Control of Radon in New Residential Buildings (EPA 402-R-94-009, March 1994).  These model standards were developed by EPA in conjunction with the home building industry.  They provide technical details on how to make radon-resistant features an integral part of a new home during construction.  A must for builders or anyone building a new or custom home.

• One- and Two-Family Dwelling Code, Appendix F.  The Council of American Building Code Officials (CABO) One- and Two-Family Dwelling Code, Appendix F includes radon-resistant techniques.  CABO International can be reached at (708) 799-2300 for information.

• Radon-Resistant Construction and Building Codes (May 1999).  Published by the International Code Council (ICC) as a guide to building radon-resistant homes and building codes; available from the ICC, 5203 Leesburg Pike, Suite 708, Falls Church, VA  22041.

Radon Technical Guidance

• Radon Mitigation Standards (EPA 402-R-93-078, Revised April 1994).  The basic reference for qualified radon mitigators.  Includes details on passive and active mitigation techniques used to reduce radon levels in homes.  Residential mitigation should conform to these basic design and performance standards, unless otherwise specified or required by state or local authorities.  This technical document supports the Consumer's Guide to Radon Reduction.

• Protocols for Radon and Radon Decay Product Measurements in Homes (EPA 402-R-92-003, June 1993).  This document is intended for use by qualified radon measurement technicians and testers, and laboratories that analyze radon devices and prepare radon test results reports.  These protocols were written to guide routine radon measurements (Citizen's Guide) and those made in conjunction with real estate transactions (Home Buyer's and Seller's Guide).

• Indoor Radon and Radon Decay Product Measurement Device Protocols (EPA 402-R-92-004, July 1992).  This document is intended for use by qualified radon measurement technicians and testers.  It contains detailed technical information on the types of radon measurement devices, their proper use and maintenance, and quality assurance procedures.  These protocols were written to guide routine radon measurements (Citizen's Guide) and those made in conjunction with real estate transactions (Home Buyer's and Seller's Guide).

9. State Radon Offices

10. EPA Regional Offices

Endorsements

                                                              August 23, 2001